Normandy Report Part 3: Redoute de Merville & Atlantikwall

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Philipp Gross
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Normandy Report Part 3: Redoute de Merville & Atlantikwall

Post by Philipp Gross »

Welcome back to Normandy - today we'll have a tour across three centuries of Fortification architecture, all handily placed together in a rather forgotten corner of Normandy, where pretty much nothig has ever happened, but which didn't stop various governments at various points from preparing anyway.

I didn't know anything about this particular place when I first came there. The only clue was a cryptic sign saying "Redoute" on the main coast road, pointing towards an unsuspicious yet narrow way that leads towards the coast. Knowing that a "Reduit" is a common term in fortifications, I assumed there might be something interesting there. After passing the sign on several occasions, we set off to follow that path on a cloudy day with nothing else planned.

Here's the area in Google Maps - we're to the east of Ouistreham, on the shores of the Orne estuary. The coastline has grown considerably during the last few centuries, both the German bunkers and the fortress were once close to shore. Today you'll find the coast only after a hike through a somewhat desolate scenerey of dunes, sand, grass and thorny shrubs. As you can see on the map there's a parking lot nearby, and soon after I set off I came across the first relic:

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In the left background you can see the ferry to Portsmouth docking at the Ouistreham harbour.

Turning to the east, the next large bunker is visible:
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Back to No. 1. The main entrance has been sealed with concrete, but there's the remains of a curious steel door wide open:
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If various sites on the internet are to be believed, this bunker once housed a 4.7 cm fortress gun, which had to be hauled out of the bunker before use. I could think of a more elegant way to defend a coast... I didn't venture inside, it was filled with assorted waste of unfathomable origin....

On the way back from the beach I investigated the second bunker, which was of a different type. An adjacent machine gun position has broken away and lies toppled to the side. Most likely the tidal currents washed away the foundations over the years. The basin to the right floods during high tide.

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This bunker actually has an armoured embrasure for yet another 4.7 cm fortress gun, the latter is missing of course.

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On the other side, a machine gun position:
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....bizarre geometries...
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Going back to the parking lot I noticed a flag flying on the horizon. Convinced to find the command bunker and probably something of a museum, I set off in the general direction on a narrow footpath carved through thick thorny shrubs, only to find myself in front of this:

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Alright then....? Limestone walls aren't exactly a common feature on the Atlantikwall. Rather excited I circumvented my discovery and came across the main entrance on the southern wall, facing inland:

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The door made it unmistakably clear that this was indeed the Redoute the sign was pointing to. And of course it was closed.
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A quick peek through an embrasure next to the door revealed some rather interesting features:
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Luckily there was a note claiming the fortress to be open on the very next day. With nothing else to see on that day, I went back to the parking lot. On the second try that is, on the first I followed another narrow path that led to a dead end:
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Back home I did a little research. The fort is relatively unknown even today, but is gradually rebuilt by a group of local enthusiasts. It was first built in 1779, based on a Vauban design, as a defense against a potential British invasion fleet, then served as a toll station. During WW2, it housed a German garrison, which added a few "upgrades". It had fallen into disrepair at that point, with the outer walls mostly crumbled. These have been restored during the last few decades. The new parts can be distinguished by the lighter colour of the stone.

Back the next day, being slightly early, I climbed atop what appears to be a former command post, now turned into a lookout platform:
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Which features a rather interesting attempt at camouflage:
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A former machine gun position has been filled with concrete:
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In the distance, the goal of today's expedition:
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In the opposite direction, Ouistreham and a colourful collection of kites:
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Not everyone comes for the bunkers and the fortress. I didn't see any birds, but this sign says they like this place :lol:
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Onwards to the fortress, this time I finally found the main access road:
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The main gate...locked again?!?
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Oh well, let's wait... Details of the outer wall, this section being in its original state:
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Shortly afterwards someone finally came. There's no entry fee, but you are encouraged to make a donation. I left 10 Euros and bought a few information booklets, a useful investment I'm sure.

On the inside, some information on the fort and its restoration:
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The central courtyard had living quarters on each side as well as a wide stair leading up to the battlements. On both the roof had collapsed. One has been restored, the other is probably under construction right now.
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Comfy, eh? :lol:
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A German bunker has been placed into what probably was just a heap of rubble back then. With the walls restored, it sticks out somewhat.
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In the center, a German mortar bunker, if I remember correctly. Quite a jarring contrast.
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Looking down, as you can see quite a lot of effort went into rebuilding.
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View towards the port. Must have been quite a show on that fateful day in June 44:
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Some more views of the inside. The eastern half is still mostly original:
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According to the guide the barracks were used by homeless locals after the war. The roofs must have caved in shortly after.
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Now imagine all of this rebuilt as it was, with a troop of Reenactors, some kegs of ale, a roaring fire, a spit roast.... 8-)
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And that's all from this particular little place. Thanks for looking and thanks to the fellow who showed me around, if he should ever stumble across this. I'm afraid my French hasn't improved since :lol:

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Vincent Power
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Re: Normandy Report Part 3: Redoute de Merville & Atlantikwa

Post by Vincent Power »

Wonderful pictures Philipp. :) One can only imagine what it must have been like way back then.

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Re: Normandy Report Part 3: Redoute de Merville & Atlantikwa

Post by Shawn Ramsey »

Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy looking at the pictures.

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Philipp Gross
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Re: Normandy Report Part 3: Redoute de Merville & Atlantikwa

Post by Philipp Gross »

Glad you like them :)

I'll need to have a look at what else I've visited, and if there's something interesting among it. Time's running again...

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