Scratchbuilding in Styrene?

[Rob Matthews]

Hi Fellas

I'm going to have to Sctratch build some 1/72 boat superstructures.

1) What thickness styrene do you all find most useful?

2) What do you find is the best way to cut styrene; score and "snap", saw or just clean cut with a blade?

3) How best do you "Cut" windows out? I've previously tended to drill multiple small holes and then cut with a blade "dot to dot". Anyone use any easier system?

Thanks as ever

Rob

[Justin Wooding]

Hi Rob,

First, i must say, i enjoy nothing more than seeing stuff scratchbuilt from white plastic. I know brass looks really awesome, but (sorry Gary) for me white plastic just appeals to me as the more traditional modeling medium. I remember Roy's builds, they were just sensational!!!

Anyway,

1. For thickness, i have sizes .25mm, .5mm and 1mm. If i want something thicker i just laminate pieces together to get what i need.

2. The .25mm i just use a nice sharp No.11 blade. The .5mm sometimes i cut with a No.11 and sometimes i score it, snap and clean the edge. The 1mm i usually always score and snap. Using a knife blade, because you have to push a little harder always ends up with a raised edge for me. I have yet to buy a set of punches for making round things.

3. For any window type holes, i obviously mark out the shape first, then i make as big a hole as i can inside the shape, leaving about 1mm scrap inside the marked out shape. Then i just gradually trim to the shapes mark and file or sand to get it neat. Leaving the scarp as thin as possible makes it easy to trim off.

Hope that helps and makes sense?

[Gary Boxall]

Despite what everyone else seems to think, I love using styrene just as much as brass

Here's the proof....



The rear part of the deck with the 3 sections louvers was constructed with several pieces of styrene strip cemented together to make the rectangular openings rather than one single piece with the holes cut out. I find this way you get perfectly square corners. When I get time this evening I'll put together some more pics to show more clearly what I mean.

Gary

[John Everett]

I agree with the above. For walls and window frames I use the thickest plastic which still looks right for your subject. Thin stock is easier to work, but often isn't stiff enough and requires reinforcement to hold a straight line.

For cutting windows I use the scribe and snap method. As Gary wrote, it's the fastest way to get clean 90 degree corners. The downside is that you will have a seam around windows and doors. But you may be able to hide that with a rivet plate, external wire conduit, or other visual mask.

Where scribe-snap isn't workable have you tried using a nibbler?


This gizmo will cut a nice 90 degree corner, one little bite at a time. With careful marking and cutting one of these can do quite clean work.

I'll look forward to seeing your boat.

[Rob Matthews]

Thanks John - never seen one of those before

Will soon - one winging it's way.

Rob

[Vlad Seabrook-Smith]

This sounds rather fascinating......

[Rob Matthews]

Hi Vlad

The Fairmile C has caught my fancy. I'm always a sucker for unusual camo schemes.



I found this site and I'm mulling buying a hull........

http://www.mtbhulls.co.uk/the-hulls

All the fittings bar the Rolls Royce 2 pdr gun are here...............

http://www.coastalcraftmodelsuk.com/accessories.php

All I need to do is build the superstructure - thus the enquiry re scratching.

This arrived last week courtsy of Oxfam after a long web search - some sites are asking £2000+



It's wonderful. And there are plans



Rob

[Vlad Seabrook-Smith]

Wow, nice project, and good find on the book.

I think you could do that with your eyes closed, between coastal craft and DJP all the pipe rails, carleys, splinter padding and weapons should leave minimal work

[Vlad Seabrook-Smith]

I hates you Rob Matthews

Just had a look at the hulls, and saw a few bits.......

[Justin Wooding]

Hi Rob,

Nice project! What scale will it be?

Hope you show some of your work on this.....